How to Clean Suede Shoes: The Complete Care Guide
Clean suede shoes dry: brush with a suede brush, lift stains with a suede eraser, then protect with a spray. Unlike smooth leather, suede is never treated with water and shoe cream. This guide walks you through cleaning suede, nubuck and velour step by step, how to deal with stubborn stains and water marks, and how to keep the velvety surface looking good for years.
Suede, nubuck or napped leather? Getting the terms right
First a clarification, because almost everyone mixes these terms up. The correct umbrella term is napped leather (in German "Rauleder"): any leather whose surface has been sanded so it takes on a fine, fibrous texture. In everyday English this all gets called "suede", but strictly that word covers only one specific type. What matters for shoes are two finishes, and the difference is which side of the hide is sanded:
- Suede (velour): the flesh side is heavily sanded, giving a longer, velvety nap. Most "suede shoes" are this type.
- Nubuck: the tougher grain side is only lightly sanded, giving a finer, shorter nap. Because nubuck comes from the thicker, more stable outer split, it is usually higher quality than velour suede.
- Smooth leather, for contrast: worked with the grain side out, with a smooth surface and a completely different care routine.
| Term | What it correctly means | Sanded side | Right brush |
|---|---|---|---|
| Napped leather | Umbrella term for all sanded, rough-surfaced leather | Grain or flesh side | depends on type |
| Suede (velour) | Heavily sanded napped leather, velvety | Flesh side | Brass brush |
| Nubuck | Lightly sanded napped leather, finer, usually higher quality | Grain side (outer split) | Rubber or crepe brush |
For care, one thing matters most: all napped leathers are brushed dry and treated with a spray, never creamed. Whether it is suede or nubuck only decides the brush - brass wire for the stronger suede nap, a gentle rubber head for the finer nubuck.
What you need
Suede needs different tools from smooth leather, but not many:
- Suede brush: brass wire for velour, a rubber or crepe head for the more delicate nubuck. A suede and nubuck brush combines both.
- Suede eraser or cleaning gum: for spot stains and pressure marks.
- Waterproofing spray for napped leather: colourless or colour-matched.
- Shoe tree: holds the shape and absorbs moisture.
- Optionally a suede cleaner or saddle soap for wet-cleaning heavily soiled shoes.
Matched together, a velour care set bundles brushes, eraser and care in one kit.
How to clean suede shoes in 6 steps
1. Brush dry
Insert a shoe tree and brush out the dirt: a brass brush for velour, a rubber brush for nubuck. Always brush in one direction (with or against the nap) so the surface looks even. Start flat and with light pressure. The steeper the angle and the harder you press, the deeper you work into the fibres, and that is only for embedded dirt.
2. Lift stains with the eraser
Work spot stains and pressure marks out with a suede eraser or a cleaning gum. The eraser lightly abrades the spot. If lighter patches appear, even the shoe out afterwards with a colour-giving waterproofing product.
3. Only for heavy soiling: wet-clean
If the shoes are greasy or heavily soiled, a wet clean with a suede cleaner or saddle soap helps. For salt or snow rings, dampen the whole shoe evenly and clean it with saddle soap so no rings are left behind. Wet cleaning is the exception, not the rule.
4. Dry properly
Dry the shoes at room temperature, never on a radiator. Stuff them with newspaper so no moisture marks form, and hold the shape with a shoe tree.
5. Waterproof
Once the shoe is dry, protect it with a suede waterproofing spray. Colourless when the colour is even, colour-matched to blend in lightened patches.
6. Raise the nap
To finish, brush the surface once more in one direction so the nap stands evenly and the velvety feel returns.
Stains and rings: the special cases
| Type of stain | What to do |
|---|---|
| Water marks and rings | Dampen the whole shoe evenly, let it dry, then brush the nap back up. |
| Grease and oil stains | Treat with a suede cleaner or leather shampoo, but they are often permanent. |
| Salt and snow rings | Dampen fully, clean with saddle soap, dry, raise the nap. |
| Pressure marks and shiny spots | Rough up with a suede eraser, then brush in one direction. |
Light suede shoes in particular are fair-weather shoes: grease and oil stains rarely come out completely. That makes waterproofing from the start all the more important.
Household remedies: toothpaste, vinegar and a pencil eraser
Many tips suggest toothpaste, vinegar, a pencil eraser or baking soda. What actually works on good suede?
- Cleaning gum or a rubber eraser: sensible, that is what it is made for.
- Vinegar or lemon, well diluted: can ease water rings, but risks new colour and water marks. Emergencies only, and never undiluted.
- Toothpaste, baking soda, shaving foam: contain oils, abrasives or bleaching agents that can leave rings and lightened patches. Not advisable on quality shoes.
A cleaning gum and the right spray cost little and are made for napped leather. Given the value of good suede shoes, that is the safe choice.
Waterproofing and protecting suede
Suede is open-pored and soaks up water and dirt faster than smooth leather. A waterproofing spray lays an invisible protective film around the fibres without changing the velvety feel. Waterproof new shoes before the first wear and refresh the protection regularly afterwards, especially in the wet season. A colourless or colour-matched spray protects and, if needed, refreshes the colour at the same time.
How often should you clean suede shoes?
Brush briefly after any heavier wear, which prevents greying and keeps the surface even. Deep-clean only as needed, waterproof regularly and always after the shoes get wet. And as with smooth leather: let each pair rest after wearing, ideally on a shoe tree.
Common mistakes
- Treating it like smooth leather: water and shoe cream clog the nap and ruin the velvety look.
- The washing machine: destroys shape, bonding and colour. Never.
- Too much pressure, too steep an angle: mats the fibres and leaves the leather shiny and greasy-looking.
- Brushing every which way: always in one direction, or the look turns patchy.
- Drying on a radiator: hardens the leather and makes it crack.
And smooth leather?
Smooth-leather shoes, which most business and dress shoes are, need a different routine: clean, condition with shoe cream, polish. Our step-by-step guide covers it: How to Clean and Care for Leather Shoes.
Frequently asked questions
How can I clean suede shoes at home?
Brush dry (a brass brush for velour, a rubber brush for nubuck), lift stains with a suede eraser, wet-clean with saddle soap if heavily soiled, air-dry at room temperature, then waterproof and brush the nap back up. Insert a shoe tree first so the shoe holds its shape.
What is the difference between suede, nubuck and napped leather?
Napped leather is the correct umbrella term for any sanded, rough-surfaced leather. Suede is sanded on the flesh side and has a longer, velvety nap; nubuck is sanded only lightly on the tougher grain side and is finer and usually higher quality. In everyday English "suede" is used loosely for all of it. Whichever you have, the care is the same: brush dry and waterproof, never cream.
What should you not clean suede with?
Not with water and shoe cream like smooth leather, not in the washing machine, and not with harsh household remedies such as toothpaste or baking soda. They clog the nap, leave rings or bleach the leather.
Can you clean suede with toothpaste, vinegar or a pencil eraser?
A cleaning gum or rubber eraser is fine and made for the job. Toothpaste and undiluted vinegar are risky and can leave rings or lighten the colour. Use a proper suede eraser, a suede brush and a suede cleaner instead.
Will suede be ruined if it gets wet?
Not necessarily. Let wet suede dry at room temperature, stuffed with newspaper and away from heat, then brush the nap back up. To avoid marks, dampen the whole shoe evenly rather than one spot. Regular waterproofing makes suede far more resistant to rain.
Can you clean suede shoes in the washing machine?
No. A washing machine ruins the shape, loosens the bonding and fades the colour. Clean suede by hand: brush dry, use an eraser for stains, and wet-clean with saddle soap only when really needed.
Conclusion
Care for suede dry: brush, erase, waterproof, and never treat it like smooth leather with water and cream. The right brush (brass for velour, rubber for nubuck), an eraser and a good waterproofing spray are enough to keep suede and nubuck velvety and colour-fresh for years.
Everything you need in one kit: a velour care set with brushes and eraser, plus a waterproofing spray for protection. For smooth leather, find the right routine in How to Clean and Care for Leather Shoes.